Synthetic vs Conventional Oil - There's A Good Reason To Switch

What about older engines that were engineered on conventional? Doesn’t matter?

I feel like I’m watching an episode of the Big Bang Theory !

Dont be square

Are you a Tribologist? Better ask the Motor Oil Geek.

I think a bit of sludge is good, it protects a bit of the engine, so I have my doubts on using Synthetic 100% of the time.

There's also Hybrid Oil. So if I had a car, I'd do this: First Mineral/Conventional Oil, it adds a little particles to plug any holes in the structure; then on the next Oil Change, I'd use Hybrid, then Full Synthetic, then Hybrid again and then Conventional again, starting a new Cycle, i think this way is a balance combo of enough sediment to have holes plugged, yet having equal parts of Detergent Synthetic to keep it clean enough to not have too much sediments. After 3 Cycles, a Flush with BG Complete Engine Cleaning Kit, so that would be about every 6 years or 60,000 miles; which I think is a good compromise for cleanliness and sediment plugin the engine.

I'm based on the experiment these guys did with 2 gasoline trucks, running them 100,000 miles in a device, not on the road; 1 with Conventional and the other with Synthetic, the Synthetic 1 was almost clean and suffered less wear and tear; so apparently is Synthetic all the way but, Conventional helps the seals to expand and seal better. So, with my humble method, I think you get the best of both Worlds, specially with Hybrid/Mixed Oil, which gives gradual and smooth transition, from 1 pure type to the other.

I would like for @EngineeringExplained to make this 6 year experiment, and check his engine in every Oil Change; to enlighten us all; if you do it, I thank you in advance

It was insightful yet succinct, thanks for that.
In return I give you this advice:
1) Your neck is not straight vertical, you have an angel, that's not good, learned from Chiropractors. Also you curve your shoulder area, check yourself from the side on the video, you have to be straight.
2) You shallow breath: so you make an effort to finish sentences, the blood vessels on the right side of your neck inflate, when you are running out of oxygen and your blood pressure raises to high unhealthy levels. Take a Deep Breath, and speak a bit slower, exhale slowly; it's the most efficient way to breath, it's also calming.
3) Go to the Gym a little, having muscles tonified, is healthy and will give you energy when you need it

@9:08 sounds like us as humans

I hope u don't mind me using this explanation in my class, job well done clarifying the oil mistry

Its so funny everyone is thanking him for this video, but no one actually knows what he's talking about. He's waving his hands all around not pointing at anything in particular.

I just put in a brand new blue print 383 stroker into my classic car. And blue print recommends conventional oil. Why if synthetic is so much better?

Castrol vs Mobil 1 vs Pennzoil? Who has the best synthetic oil for a 4 cylinder car? Mine being a 2006 Subaru Impreza.

My vehicle is capable of a million miles on conventional oil and I can burn the used oil in it as fuel, synthetic doesn't burn so using it literally costs me more to use

Synthetic oils use the same base stock "cracked" oil molecules to the same size, better heat tolerance, flow, stability, and the ability to capture combustion components for filtration. My oil doesn't turn black; oil filter is now black from contaminates. 30 years ago, the conventional oil in my engine would be black in a week or so. OEM synthetic oil/filter is the best, at $6-$8 price/ quart, plus better mpg. I would not run a turbo engine without synthetic oil.

Oh no right when he said Mobil1 i quit😅, marketed nonsense stuff. What matters guyz is this.. They can call it fully synthetic BUT it can be 100 mineral oil (hydrolocked crude oil) with synthetic additives (anti ox, anti wear, blabla...). The REAL 100 synth is at least 75% 50-50 or 60-40 or 40-60 ratio of ESTER+PAO (+ adds)!!!

God save mineral oil

Good marketing......if the manufacturer recommends an oil for that vehicle in a region, use that.
There is no need to use top shelf oils unless you're expecting to run that engine beyond its normal operational limits.

One of the few times where synthetic is a good thing.

The base of oil for me is the most important part, so that is why i only use on my vehicles (bike and car) Redline Syntethic Group IV PAO Base oils with Ester. They are the best on the market.

Why shouldn't I use the oil the owners manual of my vehicle says to use?

Burned gas makes sludge. Conventional oil has polar molecules. Polar molecules can absorb sludge. Most syntetic oils can't.

How did we ever survive b4. ?

How is the quality of the Shell advanced ultra fully synthetic oil for bikes and cars...Can anybody explain a little bit...Love from lndia...

It is just the same to use mineral or syntehtic oil if the oil is changed often enough. They are just as good lubricants. Especially SL or "older" oils. SL is "life", SM or later are "murder", a rule of thumb. Some "old" oils are actually better as lubricants. But, some modern engines are more picky for oils, even to the point where the oils are car maker specific. That just tells that those engines are borderline reliable.
I have several cars and trucks. My -79 Blazer has original engine with million+ kilometers on it. It runs like new, just passed MOT test like it was actually new. But it has had oil changes at about 5000 kms max, usually 3000 kms or less, mostly mineral oils, sometimes synthetic for hard winters here in Finland.
While the syhthetic myth has been created by oil manufacturers, the real benefit is with turbo engines. While turbo engines are more efficient, they are also more unreliable. Using syn oil keeps that cursed thing alive longer as it does not burn to crisp but to sticky goo. Just like every motorcyclist knows if oil gets to the surface of exhaust pipe.
The uniform molecyle size is indifferent thing. It does not matter, it just comes with the manufacturing process.
And, most synthetic oils are for light duty use only. I once, long time ago, thought that 5W-50 Mobil One is the same as straight 30W oil for my boat engine , 5.8 V8. I cruised to Kotka from Helsinki, and at Kotka end listened to the engine , it sounded BAD. The oil had just failed. I fortunately was able to get 30W oil from a local fisherman, and after changing the oil the engine was silent again. Later i told about my mistake to the OMC mech, he gringed and asked if I had blown the engine... Now, using mineral 20W-50 the engine is happy.
Mineral oil is cheap. There is no need to use syn oil with older engines. Just change the oil "too often". New engines are designed to be disposable, and meant to last about 5 years, so use the recommended oil to get them last even that. But change at half the kms that the manual says.

I'm sorry.
Isn't 10 weight 10 weight?

If the vehicle originally speced conventional oil, stick with conventional oil. If speced synthetic, use synthetic. But no matter what you use, change it often. Polymers break down fairly rapidly, and dirt in the oil, no matter what kind, is the enemy. And most synthetic oil sold in the US is simply upgraded conventional oil, not a true ester based synthetic.

You should really look into Valvoline Restore. It works by cleaning carbon deposits on the cylinder and overall engine. 👍

Additives don't bond as well in the synthetic oil. That is the real reason for blended oil.

when is it time to switch to synthetic fuels?

The bulk of lubes in the USA claiming to be synthetic are not made from PAO. They are made from Group III base oil and this is legal.

So if synthetic is better, why conventional still exist and proper application?

I’ve been using mobile one synthetic oil and all my Toyotas since 1977

I live in a very hot zone where there's no winter / snow... at all....
It's always sunny as hell and my engine is also hot all the time. In this case what viscosity is the best?

I got a 2012 Corolla S recently at 27k miles. It’s now 30k and I just did the oil change, Mobil 1 0w-20 Synthetic Advanced Fuel Economy with K&A Oil filter. Car is going to last me half a million miles or more, changing it every 3k miles. None of that 15-20k mile oil changes, that’s for lazy people.

I have been around for quite a while. You have confirmed so many of my thoughts. Thanks a million! A few extra $ well spent and I still change my own oil. Make ing cost basically same price or less as Oil change shop and I control what goes in my vehicles. No guessing games .One car one Rv . Have used synthetic since it hit the market. Also use K@N filters since forever. Any thoughts on K&N or did I miss a presentation? Thanks again.

Maybe next time you can explain the difference in English.

I've been a mechanic for about 46 years and regularly learn things I didn't know from this channel. Yup, that is a long time to pull wrenches 🔧.

Alright, explain this.

New motorcycle. New !!!!
Don’t forget it’s new.
Yes, I said new.
Motorcycle is 100% stock.
No mods.

From day one, it runs great on 87 octane.
600 miles, first service, oil & filter change. Still running great.

1806 miles, running great and goes in for second service, oil & filter change.
pick up bike, now ENGINE KNOCKING first two minutes, then smooths out.
Every time the engine starts it knock for two minutes.
But not completely, yet hard to notice.

NO ECU updates.

So new bike, no internal adjustments, no modifications, just oil changes.

This is on 80% or high of all this type of engine.

The only difference between new and the services are the oil changes. All these motorcycles with this engine all over the world have this issue.

The common denominator is the oil change.

Is it possible that the oil at the factory is conventional oil and it doesn’t cause the knocking ?

IF this is true then conventional oil lubricants better than a semi or full synthetic in this particular application?

Can anyone help here ?

Sooooo can we crudely say that oxygen mutates oil into sludge? Or is that the wrong thinking

A small engine I have in a power washer calls for straight 30 weight. Is there a company that makes a straight 30 weight synthetic? All I can find are conventional.

I really appreciate the information. Jason what's your take on Tribotex can it be used as they say in both conventional and synthetic oils, and does it really help the engine run better?

This guy.

Thank you for this video. I enjoy learning specific information on subjects of science and engineering 😊

Motor oil types and weights are a bit like arguing which toothpaste is best. There are differences, but those things matter far less than just DOING IT REGULARLY.