Build More Accurate Arrows using Arrow Spine Indexing | Arrow Spine Alignment

Jake, I’ve watched this video numerous times and it has been so helpful. I bought a RAM and I have been “blueprinting” all my shafts (target and hunting), including front end straightness and rear end straightness pre- and post cut.
Which do you consider most important:
1.) Stiff side oriented the same way and get the spine deviations “as close as possible”

Or

2.) Should I be less concerned with where the stiff side of the arrow is and focus on getting them all to the same measurement of deflection? (Meaning, if I have a dozen arrows and the measurement between the stiff and weak sides vary across the board, do I just get the same deflection number oriented the same direction despite where the stiff side is?)

Let me know your thoughts, thanks!

A wider tip on the dial indicator would read the deflection of the arrow better instead of reading the surface imperfections of the arrow shaft. The tips are interchangeable . A Starrett or Mitutoyo dial indicator would be a great deal more reliable. The weight should be 880 grams. The standard for spine is kind of weird as it mixes imperial and metric measurement standards (Sorry I'm a retired science teacher)

What happens with an X10?

Jake, for shooting off the shelf with a cut to center longbow should you put the index against the shelf (down) or against the riser(side)? Also, does it matter as far as right or left handed bow and feather being right or left wing?

Love your videos. Our local club has the same machine that you used in the video. I have about 4 dozen Victory arrows of different models. I put them all through the machine and the "spine align" markings on every single arrow was right on with the machine results.

Have mercy just get to it boy

u dnt need a tool to find spine n i aint sharing my secrets

So if spine indexing is “not the best idea” as you said early in the presentation; Why would one spine index at all? Answer: spine indexing is obviously important.

I've always thought of Wooden as the standard, and all that other stuff was specialty and oddball stuff. Ya, I only do traditional archery, regular bows without all that fancy balancing, and aiming stuff added to the bow.

Too much digression from the subject. Just talk less and stick to the point instead of jumping around all over the place, your videos are just so hard to watch/listen to because of the constant deviating.

I know this is an old video, but I can't seem to find the answer! I've been shooting VAP V1's with my barebow, and I've been shooting with the spine alignment line at 12 oclock. should this be rotated away from the plunger, or toward it? I'm noticing every so often I'll have 2 distinct groups, or some vertical spread variance. I initially thought it was a zniper thing, but I am curious if this might also be contributing. Victory spine alignment mark accuracy aside, I'll verify the spot, what direction should the stiff spot should point, at or away from the plunger?

Hi how do you translate the “10.000 of an inch” or any measure you read with the dial in Spines? Thanks

Valeu!

There is a much easier way to find the index or "spline". All you need is the shaft with a tip and a nock in place, and a string. Nock the string in and place the arrow verticaly with the tip down on a table. Then grab the string on each side and pull downwards until the shaft bends. Try it several times and you will see that it always bends to the same direction. This is the stiff side(Spline). Turn the nock so that it bends to or from you and make a mark on the inside. There you place the indexvane. Use an old book or something else soft, so you dont ruin the table and prevent the arrow from slipping away. Easy, quick and costsaving!

Sad I wasn't able to get signed copies of your book. I'll ask you to sign them if ever I meet you in person. Hope you give training in Toronto Canada

What about 'nock tuning' like some compound archer do? Do they work for recurve?

The digital spine tester that you linked to an Amazon is terrible. The frame is trash and puts so much right torque on the arrow that I can’t tell if I’m looking for the spine in the z axis or the torqued axis. The opposite torque from the arrow and applied to the weight tray prevents smooth weight tray movement. I’ve rotated the arrow 360 degrees and not seen the meter move. I wish I bought the one shown in your video.

Yes, I did this before seeing your vid. It was fascinating. I found ACEs typically varied +/- 10-15 on a 620 i.e. anywhere from 605 to 635 depending on rotation. But on X10s it was +/- 5 on a 600. I.e. X10s seem to be much better made. I then plotted the spine of each arrow vs. it’s rotation - and found the axis for each arrow where the spine was pretty much the same for all the arrows - and aligned this horizontally (because the flexing of the arrow on release is lateral as per archer’s paradox).

i am a trad shooter myself....but i also do spine alignment on all my arrows (carbon and wood)

my take on that is: bad release or some other error will effect the arrowflight probably more - but if i can elliminate just one factor with little effort - than go for it

since my arrows are just around 27" long the methode you show does not work for me :/
usually i build my arrows like that:
cut them to lengh
add protectorrings and glue in inserts
screw in points
add protectorring at the nock end

after that i but a point at the nock end (now every end has a pointy end)
but one point at a hardwood board and press down on the point (at the nock end) with another board as straight down as possible

the arrow will always bend toward one side! thats where the cockfeather should go
release preassure - turn arrow slightly - repeat 2 or three times to be sure

helped me a lot and just gives the good feeling that i have done a little more than most other archers on the parcour/tournament :D

Jake, can you advise if after tuning arrows the best you can without shooting them if when tuning by shooting you would only use what you class practice arrows or would you tune with all your arrows. I have always used my competition arrows for all my shooting and having two sets makes sense (practice and competition) but not sure what I would tune my bow to. Any advice would be great.

Jake put lube on your arrow where the weight and dial indicator are riding to smooth out those spikes.

How to make this spine tester at home????

I've heard many saying the Victory "spine aligned" line on the arrow is not really accurate

Victory arrows are not spine aligned after you cut them.Just a heads up.The labels are spot on before you cut them.

The dial indicator used here is $20.00. The aluminum can be ordered online also for about $20.00. Roller skate bearings for a set $8.00. They are charging $300.00.

The mhc dial indicator that is on your spline tester is around $20. Jake.....I would make it so the dial indicator would slide back and forth. I'm guessing you have to presently change each position with screwbolts.

A piece of angle aluminum, or as the British would say, "aluminium", could be replace by steel. Legs could be made easily enough. Angle support brackets and a four roller skate bearings spaced 14" either side of center. Total cost so far probably $15-$20. The test dial indicator will cost a little more but certainly not in the hundreds. I would say less than $75.00 for a descent one. A far cry from $350.00. I'm going to look into this some more. Thanks Jake.

Will the spine index change once the arrow is cut to lenght?

can you tell me where i can get that weight?

On a Recurve, where would you place the indexed spine? I would assume to the left (away from the plunger) as to allow for the archers paradox if your a right handed shooter, or would you have to paper tune the bare shaft to see what results work best?

Amazing content. Thank you very much fou supplying all your knowledge. You're doing a great job. I'm going to get one asap.

I have a question. Here you are talking about static spine indexing but, is there a way to make the alignment for the dynamic spine index?
Or is it enough with what you are showing us.
Regards

Hi I have just got some Easton x10 arrows to make up, could you give me your thoughts on the FOC for them as I have some tungsten break off points and not sure we’re or if to cut them.

Whoa, Jake with glasses. Looks like we're reaching another level.

Dude. fistbump The old Fatboyz with flames. All the cool kids have those! I have like twenty of those. Still shoot indoors and 3D with them. Might be better sticks out there, but these have flames :D

You are to be a car salesman you over sale everything

Hi Jake,
I checked my arrows the way you explained and the results were not bad. But one year later, I testet the BEARPAW Arrow Analyzer. This methode is much more faster and you get the weight of your arrow too. There are some videos on YT.
I guess the price is nearly the same.

Stay healthy

I'm surprised to hear that Jake says it is more important to index and sort the shafts such that the assorted set shows the same spine in the indexed position than to make sure that all nocks are indexed such that the weakest spine of the shaft is aligned with the plunger button.
(Actually I have heard the terminology "spline" in this regard. So finding the spline means finding the position of lowest spine around the circumference of the shaft)
The reason for this in my opinion is that when the shaft is bend in a certain direction, which upon release will be towards the plunger, the shaft will naturally try to rotate into the position of least spine. So if the spline has not been aligned with the plunger, the shaft will try to bend towards plunger and as well towards the weakes spine (the spline).
So I had thought it is more important to find the spline and position the nocks accordingly.
And to do that there is a simple method which requires 3 ball bearings and a wooden board. Two bearings will be fixed on the board app. 3 inches apart. The shaft end will be inserted into those 2 bearings and the 3rd bearing will be put over the other shaft end. You then bend the shaft by moving the 3rd bearing with your fingers towards you or away from you on the board. The shaft will rotate by itself and index at the position of lowest spine. If it doesn't rotate by its own, you rotate it with your fingers and you will easily feel the indexing of the shaft. There might be more than one point of lowest spine.

(I'm sure I'm not telling anything unknown to Jake, but I would really appreciate to hear his opinion on this)

Great video...jake

I want ask about F.O.C RECOMMENDATION for target archery ...i play barebow what the best indeks for 20 m 40 m and 50 m...hope you answer this..i`m from indonesia...newbie in archery

Thank you for another great video. First i had to stop it and order your book. Can‘t wait for it. Thank you and greetings from Germany.

just a quick question. why do you prefer win&win over hoyt? what makes one better over the other? or it just come down to preference?

Hallo Jake!! Very interesting series about your tutorials, I have watched all of then to learn more about archery, arrows, recurve bows, settings, etc, etc, but I would like to know which of your tutorials should I to beging with, I mean the first, second and soforth steps, i.e., the bow or arrow tuning? Can you tell me/us the sequence of doing things? Thanks in advance for any answer!!

You could also shoot all of your arrows numbered and without vanes at about 30m and record their impact point to sort out any flyers, this would also pick up any other inconsistencies too.